Are you new to the world of pet fish keeping? With so many different varieties to choose from, it can be a bit overwhelming. Here are a few types of freshwater fish that make excellent pets for the beginner as well as the advanced aquarist (fish keeper).
Bettas
Betas are the beautiful fish you see displayed in small bowls at your local pet store. They have long flowing fins of red, purple or blue and are extremely easy to care for. The only drawback of Betta fish is that they must be kept alone -- the males will fight each other to the death, and females are rarely available in pet shops. They don't do very well with other pet fish species either, because other fish like to nibble on their long fins.
Goldfish
Goldfish are a relatively easy pet fish to care for if you provide them with the right size tank. They won't survive long in a goldfish bowl or small aquarium of less than 10 gallons because they produce a lot of waste. And waste cuts down on the available oxygen in the water. A good rule of thumb is to keep no more than 1 or 2 goldfish for each 10 gallons of well--filtered aquarium water.
Zebra Danios
Zebra Danios are extremely hardy pet fish that will do well in any size aquarium. They're tropical fish -- so you'll need to place a heater in their tank to maintain a water temperature of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Don't just buy one Zebra Danio -- they're more fun to watch in schools of 5 or more. You'll find them in most pet stores and they're compatible with just about any variety of peaceful, tropical fish.
Platys and Swordtails
Platys and Swordtails are lumped into the same category because they're similar in appearance and pretty much identical in their requirements.
These tropical pet fish can be found in most pet stores in striking shades of orange and red. They are easy to care for when placed in a 72 degree Fahrenheit aquarium of at least 10 gallons. And they get along just fine with any other variety of peaceful tropical fish.
Platys and Swordtails mate and reproduce quite often in the home aquarium. They are livebearers -- which means their babies (fry) start swimming as soon as they're born.
Corydoras
Corydoras are another easy to care for and hardy variety of pet fish. They're a very active type of catfish and spend most of their time swimming along the bottom of the tank eating up any leftover food.
They are tropical fish, so they'll do best in a heated aquarium of at least 72 degrees Fahrenheit. You can put them in aquariums with just about any other variety of tropical fish and they seem to enjoy being kept in schools of 3 or more.
Learn even more about Pet Fish Care at http://www.petcarejournal.com - a website designed to provide you with pet care articles and resources that will help you get the most out of your pet keeping experience, no matter what type of pet you own.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Manning
Friday, February 27, 2009
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Choosing Fish Foods.....By Shirlie Sharpe, About.com
Choosing the right food for your fish is a key factor in maintaining the health and long life of your pet. Although there is no single food that is good for every fish, if you follow these four basic steps you won't go wrong.
Dietary Type
Fish owners often do not consider, or even know, the type of diet a fish is born to eat. A cow has the teeth and digestive system for grazing on grasses, while a lion has the teeth and digestive system for consuming meat. Likewise, different fish are built to eat different types of foods. Do some research on your fish and determine what dietary type your fish is (omnivore, herbivore, or carnivore). Certain species of fish have very specific dietary needs, as do newly hatched fry.
Where and When
Become familiar with where and when your fish prefer to eat. Although many fish eat from the top of the water, some graze on the bottom. Likewise, even though most fish eat during daylight hours, some eat only at night. For the bottom feeders, be sure to choose some sinking foods. The nocturnal feeders should be fed after the lights are turned off.
Variety is Spice of Life
Regardless of what type of food your fish eats, it's important to vary the diet to insure balanced nutrition. A combination of dry as well frozen and fresh/live foods will ensure a well balanced diet.
Keep it Fresh
Fish foods often don't carry an expiration date, but they have a relatively short shelf life. Flake foods lose much of their nutritional value in as little as a month, so purchase only what you can use in a few weeks. Vitamin and nutritional deficiency is a big contributor in making fish susceptible to disease.
If you need help choosing which brands of food are best for you, I've written extensive list of my personal top picks. You'll find them just to the right under the Top Picks heading. Good luck, and happy dining for your fish.
Dietary Type
Fish owners often do not consider, or even know, the type of diet a fish is born to eat. A cow has the teeth and digestive system for grazing on grasses, while a lion has the teeth and digestive system for consuming meat. Likewise, different fish are built to eat different types of foods. Do some research on your fish and determine what dietary type your fish is (omnivore, herbivore, or carnivore). Certain species of fish have very specific dietary needs, as do newly hatched fry.
Where and When
Become familiar with where and when your fish prefer to eat. Although many fish eat from the top of the water, some graze on the bottom. Likewise, even though most fish eat during daylight hours, some eat only at night. For the bottom feeders, be sure to choose some sinking foods. The nocturnal feeders should be fed after the lights are turned off.
Variety is Spice of Life
Regardless of what type of food your fish eats, it's important to vary the diet to insure balanced nutrition. A combination of dry as well frozen and fresh/live foods will ensure a well balanced diet.
Keep it Fresh
Fish foods often don't carry an expiration date, but they have a relatively short shelf life. Flake foods lose much of their nutritional value in as little as a month, so purchase only what you can use in a few weeks. Vitamin and nutritional deficiency is a big contributor in making fish susceptible to disease.
If you need help choosing which brands of food are best for you, I've written extensive list of my personal top picks. You'll find them just to the right under the Top Picks heading. Good luck, and happy dining for your fish.
Nutrition 101 for fishes....
ike you, fish need vitamins to lead long, healthy lives. Unfortunately many canned fish foods do not show the vitamin content of foods. Live foods are an even bigger unknown, as flies and worms are not inclined to prominently display nutritional information about themselves. Even if the nutritional values are shown on the food container label, do you know what your fish needs?
Fat
Fish diets should be low in fat. Even meat eating fish (carnivores) require no more than 8 percent in their diet. Plant eaters (herbivores) need no more than 3%. Excessive fat may damage the liver, and can result in disease and early death. Fish have difficulties digesting hard fats, such as those in beef. Saturated fats are particularly harmful, and should be avoided. Polyunsaturated fats such as those in brine shrimp are most digestible, and is useful when conditioning fish for breeding.
Fiber
Although small quantities of fiber aid digestion, they should not be too high. Carnivores are not able to digest fiber well at all, and should not have more than 4 percent in their diets. To remain healthy, herbivores should have between 5 and 10 percent fiber in their diet.
Protein
Protein requirements vary based on the type of fish. However protein is a key element required for good health and growth in all types of fish. Herbivores need 15 to 30 percent protein in their diet, while carnivores need at least 45 percent protein. For vigorous health growth, young fish require 50% or in their diets.
Carbohydrates
Fish do not need a large amount of carbohydrates in their diet. In fact too much can deter proper growth. However considerable debate rages over the amount of carbohydrate fish can tolerate without suffering negative side effects. Perhaps the greatest danger in higher percentages of carbs is the resulting reduction in other essential nutrients. This is particularly true in young fish, which need high levels of protein. Adult fish can tolerate as much as 40 percent carbohydrate in their diet, without ill effects. Most of the carbohydrate in fish food is in the form of starches used to bind the food and prevent it from rapidly disintegrating in the water.
Minerals
Minerals are important for healthy bones, teeth, and even scales. The key minerals fish need are calcium and phosphorus. They also need smaller amounts of iron, iodine, magnesium, sodium, potassium, copper, and zinc. Calcium is found in hard water, and phosphorus is found in live plants. If soft water and artificial plants are used, it is important to supplement the diet with foods containing minerals. Bone or meat meal is a good source of both calcium and phosphorus. Minerals have a long shelf life, and can be found in adequate quantities in good flake foods.
Vitamins
Unlike minerals, vitamins are not stable in prepared foods. Flake foods have adequate vitamin content initially, but it deteriorates rather quickly. Storage in the freezer will prolong the vitamin content, however it is best to buy only what you will use within one or two months. Key vitamins needed for good health are A, D3, E, K, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B12, C, H, M, and inositol.
Many fish keepers are not aware of the critical role vitamins play in fish health. Lack of Vitamin A can cause back deformities and stunted growth in young fish. Anytime a fish is under stress the need for Vitamin A is increased. Vitamin and E and A are key factors in maintaining fish in top breeding condition. Vitamin K is critical for proper blood clotting.
Vitamins B1, B2, and B6 are important for normal growth. Good digestion requires an adequate amount of Vitamin B3 and C. Vitamin C is also needed for healthy bones and teeth. Both Vitamin B5 and M are key factors in metabolism. Lack of Vitamin H reduces the formation of blood cells and can cause anemia.
Purchasing foods in small quantities, and varying the diet will help assure that your fish have all the nutrients they need for good health and a long life.
Fat
Fish diets should be low in fat. Even meat eating fish (carnivores) require no more than 8 percent in their diet. Plant eaters (herbivores) need no more than 3%. Excessive fat may damage the liver, and can result in disease and early death. Fish have difficulties digesting hard fats, such as those in beef. Saturated fats are particularly harmful, and should be avoided. Polyunsaturated fats such as those in brine shrimp are most digestible, and is useful when conditioning fish for breeding.
Fiber
Although small quantities of fiber aid digestion, they should not be too high. Carnivores are not able to digest fiber well at all, and should not have more than 4 percent in their diets. To remain healthy, herbivores should have between 5 and 10 percent fiber in their diet.
Protein
Protein requirements vary based on the type of fish. However protein is a key element required for good health and growth in all types of fish. Herbivores need 15 to 30 percent protein in their diet, while carnivores need at least 45 percent protein. For vigorous health growth, young fish require 50% or in their diets.
Carbohydrates
Fish do not need a large amount of carbohydrates in their diet. In fact too much can deter proper growth. However considerable debate rages over the amount of carbohydrate fish can tolerate without suffering negative side effects. Perhaps the greatest danger in higher percentages of carbs is the resulting reduction in other essential nutrients. This is particularly true in young fish, which need high levels of protein. Adult fish can tolerate as much as 40 percent carbohydrate in their diet, without ill effects. Most of the carbohydrate in fish food is in the form of starches used to bind the food and prevent it from rapidly disintegrating in the water.
Minerals
Minerals are important for healthy bones, teeth, and even scales. The key minerals fish need are calcium and phosphorus. They also need smaller amounts of iron, iodine, magnesium, sodium, potassium, copper, and zinc. Calcium is found in hard water, and phosphorus is found in live plants. If soft water and artificial plants are used, it is important to supplement the diet with foods containing minerals. Bone or meat meal is a good source of both calcium and phosphorus. Minerals have a long shelf life, and can be found in adequate quantities in good flake foods.
Vitamins
Unlike minerals, vitamins are not stable in prepared foods. Flake foods have adequate vitamin content initially, but it deteriorates rather quickly. Storage in the freezer will prolong the vitamin content, however it is best to buy only what you will use within one or two months. Key vitamins needed for good health are A, D3, E, K, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B12, C, H, M, and inositol.
Many fish keepers are not aware of the critical role vitamins play in fish health. Lack of Vitamin A can cause back deformities and stunted growth in young fish. Anytime a fish is under stress the need for Vitamin A is increased. Vitamin and E and A are key factors in maintaining fish in top breeding condition. Vitamin K is critical for proper blood clotting.
Vitamins B1, B2, and B6 are important for normal growth. Good digestion requires an adequate amount of Vitamin B3 and C. Vitamin C is also needed for healthy bones and teeth. Both Vitamin B5 and M are key factors in metabolism. Lack of Vitamin H reduces the formation of blood cells and can cause anemia.
Purchasing foods in small quantities, and varying the diet will help assure that your fish have all the nutrients they need for good health and a long life.
How to Select an Aquarium
Here's How:
1. Decide where you are going to place your aquarium. Remember filled tanks are heavy!
2. Measure the area you selected and write it down for reference.
3. Use your measurements and the tank sizes link under Related Features to find the correct size of tank.
4. When selecting a shape, choose short longer shapes over tall thinner shapes. More surface area at the top of the water is better for the fish.
5. Decide if you want glass or acrylic. I recommend glass for beginners.
6. Choose an aquarium over 10 gallons. Mistakes aren't as lethal in a tank with more water.
7. Call several stores and compare the prices for the same brand of aquarium
8. Now go purchase your aquarium and get started on your new hobby.
Tips:
1. A filled 20 gallon tank weighs 225 lbs. Use the tank sizes chart below to be sure your stand can support the aquarium you select.
2. For additional info on selecting tanks read the Getting Started feature listed below.
1. Decide where you are going to place your aquarium. Remember filled tanks are heavy!
2. Measure the area you selected and write it down for reference.
3. Use your measurements and the tank sizes link under Related Features to find the correct size of tank.
4. When selecting a shape, choose short longer shapes over tall thinner shapes. More surface area at the top of the water is better for the fish.
5. Decide if you want glass or acrylic. I recommend glass for beginners.
6. Choose an aquarium over 10 gallons. Mistakes aren't as lethal in a tank with more water.
7. Call several stores and compare the prices for the same brand of aquarium
8. Now go purchase your aquarium and get started on your new hobby.
Tips:
1. A filled 20 gallon tank weighs 225 lbs. Use the tank sizes chart below to be sure your stand can support the aquarium you select.
2. For additional info on selecting tanks read the Getting Started feature listed below.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Siamese Fighting Fish
Betta Splendens
Siamese fighting fish have the ability to breathe oxygen from the atmosphere. This is possible because of a specialised breathing organ known as the labyrinth. As an air breather Siamese fighting fish can be kept without the need for water oxygenation.
In the wild Siamese fighting fish may be confined to small water bodies for most of the year but gain a wider swimming range during the wet season.
Siamese Fighting Fish Variations
A range of colour variations have been developed from the original drab betta form. Fish can be found with one solid colour or a mix of vibrant shades and tones. Red and blue always seem to be the most dominant colours available but a good pet shop will stock many other choices.
Many Betta splendens fin shapes have been also developed. The most frequently found is the veil tail. These siamese fighting fish have long flowing tail fins that look like a satin sheet blowing in the breeze.
Crown tail Siamese fighting fish have extended filaments likened to the alternate spikes and depressions seen in a king's head piece. The individual rays of the fins extend evenly in a good quality crown tail betta.
Delta tails, half moons and full moon betta varieties all have tails shorter and rounder than the veil tail fighting fish. The main difference between these betta varieties is the angle that the extended tail protrudes from the body.
Double tail fighting fish are also bred. In such specimens the tail is split into a pair of club shaped lobes.
The tail fins of some varieties of Siamese fighting fish can open up like a fan. This tail posture will be shown when courting female fish or when stimulated by male fighting fish. Do not do this for prolonged periods as it is stressful for the betta fish.
Veil Tail Siamese Fighting Fish
This betta splendens has a dappled combination of colours. It is a veil tailed variety with long flowing fins. The veil tail is the original variety that was developed into the other fin formations available today. Veil tail siamese fighting fish have the longest fins of any betta splendens. This can make them especially susceptible to fin biting fish.
More Siamese Fighting Fish Varieties
Half moon betta Cambodian betta fish White and blue betta splendens Close up betta splendens front view
Double tail betta Blua and red betta Female siamese fighting fish Orange siamese fighting fish
Blue siamese fighting fish Betta splendens crown tail Apricot bodied betta splendens Blue crown tail betta
Buying Your Betta Splendens
When looking at the bettas for sale in most pet stores they will have been imported from overseas. Depending on your country, Imported fish have to pass a number of inspections and time in quarantine will take place before a fish is offered to the public.
Choose a lively fighting fish with fins displayed well. If the water is not clean consider visiting a different pet shop. Ask the seller what the betta has been fed on and duplicate it's diet for easiest transition. Also observe for any symptoms of health problems.
Feeding Siamese Fighting Fish
A wild fighter fish will enjoy a diet consisting of live aquatic insect larvae and flying bugs that stray into the water. This diet should be duplicated using similar foods such as frozen bloodworms. Dry pellet foods designed for bettas are also available. These are usually fed at the rate of 3 or 4 pellets a day. Some contain vegetable extracts that can increase the colour intensity of red fighting fish. If kept in an unfiltered container pay close attention to removing uneaten food as it can quickly spoil the fish's water.
Siamese Fighting Fish Health Problems
betta fish with white spotSiamese fighting fish are highly susceptible too ammonia which accumulates faster in smaller containers. Prolonged exposure can weaken the fish and lead to bacterial infection. Visible symptoms may include a swollen stomach, lethargic behaviour and a lack of interest in food.
Fighting fish are a tropical fish and thrive in a constantly warm environment. Undersized betta containers are also prone to rapid temperature changes in comparison to larger containers. An aquarium makes the best home for a Siamese fighting fish to live. When using betta bowls they should be large and kept at a reasonable temperature.
Another fisease encountered by bettas is white spot. Also known as freshwater ich, this disease can be fatal if left untreated. The ich spends part of it's lifecycle in the aquarium water and is highly contagious. This disease can start as a single spot. Careful inspection of your betta can catch the disease before it become more of a problem. Treatments can weaken the betta fish leaving it susceptible to other disease. Prevention is as easy as not sharing the betta's net with new fish which have not passed home quarantine. The Siamese fighter fish in the above photograph has one single spot between it's eyes.
Breeding Bettas
female siamese fighting fishFeed and condition the parent fish on live food and frozen bloodworms. When the female fighter is ripe a small white egg tube will become visible between the front fins. The male betta will have built a large foamy bubble nest after reaching breeding condition.
The male Siamese fighting fish should be housed separately in a fairly shallow aquarium. No more than 20cm of water is needed. A water lily or piece of bubble wrap floating on the water surface can help reinforce and protect the bubble nest. The clear plastic bubble wrap is useful because it lets you view the developing eggs and emerging fry.
male siamese fighter fish with bubble nestIntroduce the pair of bettas and they should begin spawning in as short as a few minutes and sometimes several hours later. Observe the female for damage and remove her if she is showing injury to her body. Fin damage is unavoidable when breeding Siamese fighting fish but these tears will quickly heal.
Spawning Betta splendens involves the male chasing the female until she allows him to wrap her in his fins. She then expels a batch of eggs which gently drop to the bottom. The male will release his milt during the embrace then catch and collect the eggs. After depositing the eggs in his bubble nest the male fighting fish will repeat the chase and embrace behaviour. Several hundred eggs can be expected.
Siamese Fighting Fish Spawing
For an interesting breeding cycle you cannot go past the Siamese fighting fish as this footage of the egg laying shows. Spawning Siamese fighting fish deposit eggs within the bubble nest. These fish have been offered some floating plastic to strengthen and protect the nest. Using a clear plastic film allows the eggs to be viewed while the male cares for them. The film can prevent the bubbles from bursting.
Sometimes a female betta will not spawn the first time. Such reluctant females will often lay after another fortnight of conditioning. You can sometimes tell how eager a female fighting fish is to breed by placing her in a jar inside the breeding aquarium. If she seems keen to make contact with the male she will probably be ready to spawn.
The male fighting fish is responsible for all maternal duties. For the next 48-72 hours he will hover beneath the nest catching any fallen eggs and replacing them in his bubble nest. When the eggs begin to hatch he will frantically collect the tiny fry and place them back in the oxygen rich bubble nest. The male Siamese fighting fish has a hectic time as the small fry usually swim very randomly.
Raising Siamese Fighting Fish
The newly hatched Siamese fighting fish are exceptionally small. After the yolk sac is depleted and the fry are free swimming microscopic food stuffs should be offered. Paramecium followed by microworms are both useful foods. Remember to prepare cultures in advance to assure a steady supply. A sponge filter in the breeding tank can also provide some microscopic nutrition but is impractical while the fragile bubble nest is required.
Upon hatching Siamese fighting fish will uptake oxygen through the water but at the second or third week fry will begin transformations within their breathing apparatus. This change will allow the adult fish to breathe atmospheric air but comes at a cost for the young fry. Unless the air at the top of the tank is kept at the same temperature as the water, huge losses will occur. This is due to the developing labyrinth organ becoming congested with mucus and consequently asphyxiating the fry.
To prevent large fry losses the aquarium should be fitted with a tight sealing lid. If draughts can enter through cracks at the edges of the lid it is advised to seal the entire aquarium with plastic film and allow only a minimal amount of ventilation.
The next challenge in Siamese fighting fish husbandry arises when males begin aggressive behaviour toward their brothers. At this stage each male Siamese fighting fish will require it's own container to prevent fin damage and death.
Family - Anabantidae
Size - 6-7 cm
Fish Origin - Malaysia and Thailand (formerly Siam)
Water - Tolerates wide 6.5 to 7.5 pH range but prefers water on the soft side
Temperature - 24-30°C but best around 26-28°C for every day temperature
Feeding - Dried and live bloodworms and similar foods
Sexing - Male has showy long fins, egg tube visible in female
Breeding - Bubble nest builder - male cares for eggs and fry
Aquarium - Single male per aquarium
Siamese fighting fish have the ability to breathe oxygen from the atmosphere. This is possible because of a specialised breathing organ known as the labyrinth. As an air breather Siamese fighting fish can be kept without the need for water oxygenation.
In the wild Siamese fighting fish may be confined to small water bodies for most of the year but gain a wider swimming range during the wet season.
Siamese Fighting Fish Variations
A range of colour variations have been developed from the original drab betta form. Fish can be found with one solid colour or a mix of vibrant shades and tones. Red and blue always seem to be the most dominant colours available but a good pet shop will stock many other choices.
Many Betta splendens fin shapes have been also developed. The most frequently found is the veil tail. These siamese fighting fish have long flowing tail fins that look like a satin sheet blowing in the breeze.
Crown tail Siamese fighting fish have extended filaments likened to the alternate spikes and depressions seen in a king's head piece. The individual rays of the fins extend evenly in a good quality crown tail betta.
Delta tails, half moons and full moon betta varieties all have tails shorter and rounder than the veil tail fighting fish. The main difference between these betta varieties is the angle that the extended tail protrudes from the body.
Double tail fighting fish are also bred. In such specimens the tail is split into a pair of club shaped lobes.
The tail fins of some varieties of Siamese fighting fish can open up like a fan. This tail posture will be shown when courting female fish or when stimulated by male fighting fish. Do not do this for prolonged periods as it is stressful for the betta fish.
Veil Tail Siamese Fighting Fish
This betta splendens has a dappled combination of colours. It is a veil tailed variety with long flowing fins. The veil tail is the original variety that was developed into the other fin formations available today. Veil tail siamese fighting fish have the longest fins of any betta splendens. This can make them especially susceptible to fin biting fish.
More Siamese Fighting Fish Varieties
Half moon betta Cambodian betta fish White and blue betta splendens Close up betta splendens front view
Double tail betta Blua and red betta Female siamese fighting fish Orange siamese fighting fish
Blue siamese fighting fish Betta splendens crown tail Apricot bodied betta splendens Blue crown tail betta
Buying Your Betta Splendens
When looking at the bettas for sale in most pet stores they will have been imported from overseas. Depending on your country, Imported fish have to pass a number of inspections and time in quarantine will take place before a fish is offered to the public.
Choose a lively fighting fish with fins displayed well. If the water is not clean consider visiting a different pet shop. Ask the seller what the betta has been fed on and duplicate it's diet for easiest transition. Also observe for any symptoms of health problems.
Feeding Siamese Fighting Fish
A wild fighter fish will enjoy a diet consisting of live aquatic insect larvae and flying bugs that stray into the water. This diet should be duplicated using similar foods such as frozen bloodworms. Dry pellet foods designed for bettas are also available. These are usually fed at the rate of 3 or 4 pellets a day. Some contain vegetable extracts that can increase the colour intensity of red fighting fish. If kept in an unfiltered container pay close attention to removing uneaten food as it can quickly spoil the fish's water.
Siamese Fighting Fish Health Problems
betta fish with white spotSiamese fighting fish are highly susceptible too ammonia which accumulates faster in smaller containers. Prolonged exposure can weaken the fish and lead to bacterial infection. Visible symptoms may include a swollen stomach, lethargic behaviour and a lack of interest in food.
Fighting fish are a tropical fish and thrive in a constantly warm environment. Undersized betta containers are also prone to rapid temperature changes in comparison to larger containers. An aquarium makes the best home for a Siamese fighting fish to live. When using betta bowls they should be large and kept at a reasonable temperature.
Another fisease encountered by bettas is white spot. Also known as freshwater ich, this disease can be fatal if left untreated. The ich spends part of it's lifecycle in the aquarium water and is highly contagious. This disease can start as a single spot. Careful inspection of your betta can catch the disease before it become more of a problem. Treatments can weaken the betta fish leaving it susceptible to other disease. Prevention is as easy as not sharing the betta's net with new fish which have not passed home quarantine. The Siamese fighter fish in the above photograph has one single spot between it's eyes.
Breeding Bettas
female siamese fighting fishFeed and condition the parent fish on live food and frozen bloodworms. When the female fighter is ripe a small white egg tube will become visible between the front fins. The male betta will have built a large foamy bubble nest after reaching breeding condition.
The male Siamese fighting fish should be housed separately in a fairly shallow aquarium. No more than 20cm of water is needed. A water lily or piece of bubble wrap floating on the water surface can help reinforce and protect the bubble nest. The clear plastic bubble wrap is useful because it lets you view the developing eggs and emerging fry.
male siamese fighter fish with bubble nestIntroduce the pair of bettas and they should begin spawning in as short as a few minutes and sometimes several hours later. Observe the female for damage and remove her if she is showing injury to her body. Fin damage is unavoidable when breeding Siamese fighting fish but these tears will quickly heal.
Spawning Betta splendens involves the male chasing the female until she allows him to wrap her in his fins. She then expels a batch of eggs which gently drop to the bottom. The male will release his milt during the embrace then catch and collect the eggs. After depositing the eggs in his bubble nest the male fighting fish will repeat the chase and embrace behaviour. Several hundred eggs can be expected.
Siamese Fighting Fish Spawing
For an interesting breeding cycle you cannot go past the Siamese fighting fish as this footage of the egg laying shows. Spawning Siamese fighting fish deposit eggs within the bubble nest. These fish have been offered some floating plastic to strengthen and protect the nest. Using a clear plastic film allows the eggs to be viewed while the male cares for them. The film can prevent the bubbles from bursting.
Sometimes a female betta will not spawn the first time. Such reluctant females will often lay after another fortnight of conditioning. You can sometimes tell how eager a female fighting fish is to breed by placing her in a jar inside the breeding aquarium. If she seems keen to make contact with the male she will probably be ready to spawn.
The male fighting fish is responsible for all maternal duties. For the next 48-72 hours he will hover beneath the nest catching any fallen eggs and replacing them in his bubble nest. When the eggs begin to hatch he will frantically collect the tiny fry and place them back in the oxygen rich bubble nest. The male Siamese fighting fish has a hectic time as the small fry usually swim very randomly.
Raising Siamese Fighting Fish
The newly hatched Siamese fighting fish are exceptionally small. After the yolk sac is depleted and the fry are free swimming microscopic food stuffs should be offered. Paramecium followed by microworms are both useful foods. Remember to prepare cultures in advance to assure a steady supply. A sponge filter in the breeding tank can also provide some microscopic nutrition but is impractical while the fragile bubble nest is required.
Upon hatching Siamese fighting fish will uptake oxygen through the water but at the second or third week fry will begin transformations within their breathing apparatus. This change will allow the adult fish to breathe atmospheric air but comes at a cost for the young fry. Unless the air at the top of the tank is kept at the same temperature as the water, huge losses will occur. This is due to the developing labyrinth organ becoming congested with mucus and consequently asphyxiating the fry.
To prevent large fry losses the aquarium should be fitted with a tight sealing lid. If draughts can enter through cracks at the edges of the lid it is advised to seal the entire aquarium with plastic film and allow only a minimal amount of ventilation.
The next challenge in Siamese fighting fish husbandry arises when males begin aggressive behaviour toward their brothers. At this stage each male Siamese fighting fish will require it's own container to prevent fin damage and death.
Family - Anabantidae
Size - 6-7 cm
Fish Origin - Malaysia and Thailand (formerly Siam)
Water - Tolerates wide 6.5 to 7.5 pH range but prefers water on the soft side
Temperature - 24-30°C but best around 26-28°C for every day temperature
Feeding - Dried and live bloodworms and similar foods
Sexing - Male has showy long fins, egg tube visible in female
Breeding - Bubble nest builder - male cares for eggs and fry
Aquarium - Single male per aquarium
Friday, July 4, 2008
Goldfish Breeding
Breeding goldfish can be fun but it can also time consuming. There are a few easy steps to prepare the tank for breeding.
1. You will need at least 20 gallons of water to breed two goldfish properly.
2. You will need plants in the goldfish tank as well.
3. You will need a male and a female goldfish of at least 3 years old, anything younger and they may not breed and might cause the female to become egg bound.
4. You will need another tank of at least 3 to 5 gallons of water.
5. You will also need Goldfish baby food, but we will get into that later.
Okay, so lets say you have made all the preparations and now you want to breed your goldfish. One of the main things that will need to happen before the goldfish will want to breed is for the temperature to get down to 64*F for up to 4 months. After 4 months at 64*F a slow warming period back to the normal temp of 70-74*F will trigger the goldfish to breed.
Fish Sexing of Goldfish
The first signs goldfish are ready to mate; The male goldfish will get white pimples on the gill coverings and the female goldfish will become very round looking. The Male goldfish will chase the female goldfish around the tank endlessly (sometimes even tearing and hurting her fins). The female goldfish will become very tried and will release her eggs, sometimes by the hundreds or thousands, all over the tank. Most of them will stick to the plants. The male goldfish will spray his milt over the eggs and the tank will get a cloudy appearance (don't change the water!). After about three to four hours the courtship should stop. This is when the hard work begins.
Now that the eggs are fertilized you will now need to remove them from the tank. Goldfish parents will eat anything including there own eggs. You will need to place them in the 3-5 gallon tank you have had ready. This tank should have no more that about 6 inches of water to avoid the goldfish being crushed by the weight of the water. Too much water also makes it harder for them to swim to the surface. You will need a weak filter system to avoid drawing fry into the filter. You need to aerate the water surface and you will also need a heater.
The temperature of the tank will determine the incubation period generally 5 days at 70*F and 7days at 65*F. You will need keep a good eye on the eggs because some of them could wind up with fungus and infect the rest of the eggs. Healthy eggs will look transparent in color. The non fertilized eggs will be white and most likely will get fungus. You will need to remove the fungused eggs.
After four days you should see growth inside the goldfish egg, a small black dot in the middle. After or around the seventh day, they will start to come out of the egg and stick to the plants. You will be able to see the yolk sack that they will be feeding off of for the next 3 days.
Now after the yolk sack is gone they will be searching for food a lot. Many goldfish will die because of lack of foods. Goldfish "fry" as they are called, will need very small particles of food such as frozen brine shrimp, micro worms, crushed hard boiled egg yolk, dried flake foods and even liquid foods if you can find them. You will need to feed them 3 times a day (Morning, Noon, and Night), making sure that you only feed the goldfish fry enough food that they are able to eat it all or you will spoil the tank water.
when they start to grow, you might need more tanks to separate them or find some one who wants these beauties.
1. You will need at least 20 gallons of water to breed two goldfish properly.
2. You will need plants in the goldfish tank as well.
3. You will need a male and a female goldfish of at least 3 years old, anything younger and they may not breed and might cause the female to become egg bound.
4. You will need another tank of at least 3 to 5 gallons of water.
5. You will also need Goldfish baby food, but we will get into that later.
Okay, so lets say you have made all the preparations and now you want to breed your goldfish. One of the main things that will need to happen before the goldfish will want to breed is for the temperature to get down to 64*F for up to 4 months. After 4 months at 64*F a slow warming period back to the normal temp of 70-74*F will trigger the goldfish to breed.
Fish Sexing of Goldfish
The first signs goldfish are ready to mate; The male goldfish will get white pimples on the gill coverings and the female goldfish will become very round looking. The Male goldfish will chase the female goldfish around the tank endlessly (sometimes even tearing and hurting her fins). The female goldfish will become very tried and will release her eggs, sometimes by the hundreds or thousands, all over the tank. Most of them will stick to the plants. The male goldfish will spray his milt over the eggs and the tank will get a cloudy appearance (don't change the water!). After about three to four hours the courtship should stop. This is when the hard work begins.
Now that the eggs are fertilized you will now need to remove them from the tank. Goldfish parents will eat anything including there own eggs. You will need to place them in the 3-5 gallon tank you have had ready. This tank should have no more that about 6 inches of water to avoid the goldfish being crushed by the weight of the water. Too much water also makes it harder for them to swim to the surface. You will need a weak filter system to avoid drawing fry into the filter. You need to aerate the water surface and you will also need a heater.
The temperature of the tank will determine the incubation period generally 5 days at 70*F and 7days at 65*F. You will need keep a good eye on the eggs because some of them could wind up with fungus and infect the rest of the eggs. Healthy eggs will look transparent in color. The non fertilized eggs will be white and most likely will get fungus. You will need to remove the fungused eggs.
After four days you should see growth inside the goldfish egg, a small black dot in the middle. After or around the seventh day, they will start to come out of the egg and stick to the plants. You will be able to see the yolk sack that they will be feeding off of for the next 3 days.
Now after the yolk sack is gone they will be searching for food a lot. Many goldfish will die because of lack of foods. Goldfish "fry" as they are called, will need very small particles of food such as frozen brine shrimp, micro worms, crushed hard boiled egg yolk, dried flake foods and even liquid foods if you can find them. You will need to feed them 3 times a day (Morning, Noon, and Night), making sure that you only feed the goldfish fry enough food that they are able to eat it all or you will spoil the tank water.
when they start to grow, you might need more tanks to separate them or find some one who wants these beauties.
The Golden Rule!
Quarantine ALL new Goldfish you add to your Goldfish Pond and Goldfish Aquarium and treat ALL new Plants.
Follow these five simple steps for proper Goldfish Care and reduce Goldfish Disease:
Quick Steps:
# 1 - Your Quarantine Goldfish Aquarium must be aged or have an aged filter.
# 2- Salt your Goldfish Aquarium to, point .3 %, one tablespoon per gallon.
# 3 - Treat for flukes with Prazi Q or our Aqua Prazi .
# 4 - Look for anchor worm and fish lice, if found, treat Goldfish with Dimlin .
# 5 - Feed Medi-Gold to ALL new goldfish for two weeks to treat for any bacterial problems.
You break this Golden Rule and your Goldfish could pay with their life!
Quarantine is a MUST, I've seen beautiful collections of goldfish lost in Goldfish Ponds and Goldfish Aquariums because Goldfish Collectors did not quarantine their new goldfish.
Follow these five simple steps for proper Goldfish Care and reduce Goldfish Disease:
Quick Steps:
# 1 - Your Quarantine Goldfish Aquarium must be aged or have an aged filter.
# 2- Salt your Goldfish Aquarium to, point .3 %, one tablespoon per gallon.
# 3 - Treat for flukes with Prazi Q or our Aqua Prazi .
# 4 - Look for anchor worm and fish lice, if found, treat Goldfish with Dimlin .
# 5 - Feed Medi-Gold to ALL new goldfish for two weeks to treat for any bacterial problems.
You break this Golden Rule and your Goldfish could pay with their life!
Quarantine is a MUST, I've seen beautiful collections of goldfish lost in Goldfish Ponds and Goldfish Aquariums because Goldfish Collectors did not quarantine their new goldfish.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
The Best Aquarium Filters...
Eclipse Aquarum Hood System.
BIO-Wheel Filters for Aquariums
The top picture shows the Eclipse Aquarium Hood on my Aquarium with the cover of the hood open. The red arrow points to the BIO-Wheel filter in the hood.
BIO-Wheel from an Eclipse Aquarium Hood.
Here is a closer view of the BIO-Wheel filter with the folded pleats that increase the surface area to provide more living space for the bacteria. This BIO-Wheel is new and has not yet been populated by bacteria.
1. We Recommend BIO-Wheels ...
in aquarium filters such as the Penguin Filters, the Emperor Filters, and the Eclipse Aquarium Hoods. An Eclipse Aquarium Hood is shown above with its built-in BIO-Wheel.
All of these filters are made by Marineland Inc. This page contains an explanation of why we recommend filters with BIO-Wheels over all other filters for all freshwater aquariums.
At the bottom of this page is link to the page in Marineland's web site, which contains more information about their Penguin BIO-Wheel Filters. Click here now to buy a BIO-Wheel Filter.
2. Water Filtration is Very Important ...
to the health of the fish, living in aquariums. Click here to go to another page in this web site with information about the three stages of Water Filtration.
The advertisement, shown below, links to this advertiser's web site.
Aquarium Guys offers a large variety of Aquarium Supplies including both Tropical Fish Supplies and Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for your fish tank. Click on this image to go to the page in Aquarium Guys' web site with more information about the products in this ad.
3. Biological Filtration ...
of aquarium water is performed by living bacteria. These bacteria are often called beneficial bacteria to distinguish them from the pathogenic bacteria that cause diseases. Click here for more information about biological filtration.
4. Biological Filters ...
are generally devices that provide living space for the beneficial bacteria that perform the biological filtration that was mentioned in paragraph 3 above.
Most biological filters are limited by the amount of oxygen that is dissolved in the water, and oxygen is not very soluble in water. In fact, aquarium water rarely has more than 7 ppm (parts per million) of oxygen.
So biological filters, that rely completely on the water flowing through them to provide oxygen for their bacteria, are limited by the small amount of oxygen that's dissolved in the water. Under gravel filters, canister filters, sponge filters, and especially fluidized bed filters are almost always starved for oxygen. They have lots of fish waste and lots of surface area with lots of bacteria, but the water in these filters lacks an abundant supply of oxygen for the bacteria.
So all of these types of filters are greatly limited by the small amount of oxygen in the water that flows through them.
5. BIO-Wheels ...
spinning in the air and water, are not limited by the amount of oxygen in the water. Air is 20% oxygen, that is 200,000 ppm compared with the 7 ppm in water, and the abundant oxygen in the air rapidly replenishes the oxygen at the surface of the water, such as on the surfaces of a BIO-Wheel. So the water on the surfaces of the BIO-Wheel is always very rich in oxygen.
The beneficial bacteria living on the BIO-Wheel are able to use the abundant oxygen in the water that's on the BIO-Wheel to rapidly oxidize the fish waste that's also dissolved in the water.
6. BIO-Wheels are Self-Cleaning.
A BIO-Wheel in one of our Eclipse Aquarium Hoods has been running for many months without any maintenance.
Of course every few weeks we replace the filter pad, which is separated from the BIO-Wheel, and changing this filter pad takes only a minute or two. Because the Filtering Media moves as the BIO-Wheels spin, the BIO-Wheels are able to adjust to a rapid increase in the amount of fish waste, as might happen in a fish store, when the aquariums are restocked from the fish wholesaler.
But filters, such as canister filters, with filtering media that does not move will not respond quickly to an increased bio-load, and the amount of waste in the water will increase for about two days, until the bacteria can respond to the increased bio-load.
BIO-Wheels use very little energy. A filter with a BIO-Wheel needs to pump the water only a few inches above the water level in the aquarium, and there is practically no backpressure, so filters with BIO-Wheels require very little energy.
BIO-Wheel Filters for Aquariums
The top picture shows the Eclipse Aquarium Hood on my Aquarium with the cover of the hood open. The red arrow points to the BIO-Wheel filter in the hood.
BIO-Wheel from an Eclipse Aquarium Hood.
Here is a closer view of the BIO-Wheel filter with the folded pleats that increase the surface area to provide more living space for the bacteria. This BIO-Wheel is new and has not yet been populated by bacteria.
1. We Recommend BIO-Wheels ...
in aquarium filters such as the Penguin Filters, the Emperor Filters, and the Eclipse Aquarium Hoods. An Eclipse Aquarium Hood is shown above with its built-in BIO-Wheel.
All of these filters are made by Marineland Inc. This page contains an explanation of why we recommend filters with BIO-Wheels over all other filters for all freshwater aquariums.
At the bottom of this page is link to the page in Marineland's web site, which contains more information about their Penguin BIO-Wheel Filters. Click here now to buy a BIO-Wheel Filter.
2. Water Filtration is Very Important ...
to the health of the fish, living in aquariums. Click here to go to another page in this web site with information about the three stages of Water Filtration.
The advertisement, shown below, links to this advertiser's web site.
Aquarium Guys offers a large variety of Aquarium Supplies including both Tropical Fish Supplies and Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for your fish tank. Click on this image to go to the page in Aquarium Guys' web site with more information about the products in this ad.
3. Biological Filtration ...
of aquarium water is performed by living bacteria. These bacteria are often called beneficial bacteria to distinguish them from the pathogenic bacteria that cause diseases. Click here for more information about biological filtration.
4. Biological Filters ...
are generally devices that provide living space for the beneficial bacteria that perform the biological filtration that was mentioned in paragraph 3 above.
Most biological filters are limited by the amount of oxygen that is dissolved in the water, and oxygen is not very soluble in water. In fact, aquarium water rarely has more than 7 ppm (parts per million) of oxygen.
So biological filters, that rely completely on the water flowing through them to provide oxygen for their bacteria, are limited by the small amount of oxygen that's dissolved in the water. Under gravel filters, canister filters, sponge filters, and especially fluidized bed filters are almost always starved for oxygen. They have lots of fish waste and lots of surface area with lots of bacteria, but the water in these filters lacks an abundant supply of oxygen for the bacteria.
So all of these types of filters are greatly limited by the small amount of oxygen in the water that flows through them.
5. BIO-Wheels ...
spinning in the air and water, are not limited by the amount of oxygen in the water. Air is 20% oxygen, that is 200,000 ppm compared with the 7 ppm in water, and the abundant oxygen in the air rapidly replenishes the oxygen at the surface of the water, such as on the surfaces of a BIO-Wheel. So the water on the surfaces of the BIO-Wheel is always very rich in oxygen.
The beneficial bacteria living on the BIO-Wheel are able to use the abundant oxygen in the water that's on the BIO-Wheel to rapidly oxidize the fish waste that's also dissolved in the water.
6. BIO-Wheels are Self-Cleaning.
A BIO-Wheel in one of our Eclipse Aquarium Hoods has been running for many months without any maintenance.
Of course every few weeks we replace the filter pad, which is separated from the BIO-Wheel, and changing this filter pad takes only a minute or two. Because the Filtering Media moves as the BIO-Wheels spin, the BIO-Wheels are able to adjust to a rapid increase in the amount of fish waste, as might happen in a fish store, when the aquariums are restocked from the fish wholesaler.
But filters, such as canister filters, with filtering media that does not move will not respond quickly to an increased bio-load, and the amount of waste in the water will increase for about two days, until the bacteria can respond to the increased bio-load.
BIO-Wheels use very little energy. A filter with a BIO-Wheel needs to pump the water only a few inches above the water level in the aquarium, and there is practically no backpressure, so filters with BIO-Wheels require very little energy.
Featured Fish
Green Spotted Puffer
These Puffers are very nice in color and eating well. Very amusing watching their belly expand as they devour shrimp, crabs, or small snails. Like most puffers, they will nip on fins of other slow moving fishes, so best to keep with other puffers or actively moving fishes. Click here for information about Pufferfish.
These Puffers are very nice in color and eating well. Very amusing watching their belly expand as they devour shrimp, crabs, or small snails. Like most puffers, they will nip on fins of other slow moving fishes, so best to keep with other puffers or actively moving fishes. Click here for information about Pufferfish.
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